Tag Archives: chiang mai

Tok Sen Massage

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‘Tok Sen’ is a style of ‘wooden hammer and chisel’ massage that has been around for thousands of years but I wasn’t even aware of it until a week ago. It’s not something you see on most massage service menus. A friend told me about it and I was intrigued: a style of massage I hadn’t tried yet! Chiang Mai and other parts of northern Thailand are the places to look for ‘Tok Sen.’ An on-line search led me to the Fah Lanna Spa where an hour of treatment went for the rather steep price of 1500 baht! A bit too rich for my blood! Soon after, I stumbled upon an inconspicuous massage establishment called Arokaya Massage, located right inside the temple grounds of Wat Mahawan on Taphae Road beside Soi 4, not far from the Taphae Gate. Their sign advertised ‘Tok Sen’ for only 200 baht (about $6 US). I walked right in!

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The waiting area was an open leafy zone with a fake waterfalls gently tumbling water through sprays of orchids and other greenery with some traditional music piped in on a tinny speaker. Monks were milling about doing their daily chores. Was it a monk that would be giving me a massage? There was a guy giving a gentleman a foot massage. When he looked around at me, I said ‘Tok sen?’ He called out and soon after, a 30-ish woman emerged from the shadows and led me into a side building of the temple. I was given some cotton pants to change into as well as a bag to put my clothes in, then directed upstairs into a large open room with about a dozen mattresses on the floor.

There were already a couple of people getting ‘tokked’ with a steady, rhythmic tapping of wood on wood. My masseuse took out a couple of simple tools: a small, wooden mallet and a thick, wedge-shaped stick like a pestle. She had me lay down on my stomach, then began by applying the pointy end of the stick to my upper back and gave the other end a good rap with the mallet. The sound was a rather pleasant, steady rhythmic ‘tok tok tok.’ She hammered in synch with the other masseuses so smoothly that you couldn’t tell how many hammers were going.

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The hammering force is fairly hard and the body gets a good jolt. A shock wave of energy radiates out from the point of the wedge. It was lightly painful but in a good way and I soon got used to it. In fact, after a while, I rose above whatever pain there was and started to actually drift off. She followed some meridians (‘sen’) longitudinally up and down my back, continuing down a line along my buttocks and on to the back of my legs. The tapping line ended on the soles of my feet. I did find the hammering along the backs of my legs to be a bit more painful. That might have been because she thought I, being a big tall fellow with sturdy legs, needed more pressure, or maybe my skin and muscle is more sensitive there.

The tapping seemed to strike in ‘triplets,’ sometimes staying in one spot for three strokes, and sometimes sliding along a bit for three strokes. I believe she ran up and down four meridians along the length of my body. After the first ten minutes or so, she put down the hammer and pestle, and started more of a Thai massage routine, pressing along various spots of my back and legs with her elbows and palms of her hands. This part was more painful but probably didn’t need to be. She seemed to revel in causing me as much pain as possible because she was laughing as she did so. She would jab me hard and ask ‘jep mai?’ Any pain? I’d reply ‘jakajee’: you’re tickling me! Which was the wrong thing to say because now she redoubled her efforts to inflict some pain, but in a fun way. Being a stubborn, proud sort, I wasn’t going to give in so it’s my own fault it hurt so much. If you find yourself getting too much pressure, just say ‘baw baw’ (softer) or let out a plain ‘ouch’. The other two ladies didn’t seem to be undergoing any pain stresses so I’m going to conclude that I had a sadistic woman! (I think a lot of times, masseuses assume that if you’re a large person you want harsher pressure).

Soon it was time to turn over. She returned to tapping along meridans of my upper legs, arms, hands, followed by more direct hand kneading and the usual bending of legs in impossible angles and stretches with some more pain.

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It finished off with sitting upright and getting a bit of tapping on the upper shoulders followed by standard hand kneading of shoulders, neck stretches, and a head massage. Like they say with painful events, it feels good when it stops!

The rate of hammering was about 2 beats per second. The rhythm is hypnotic and it’s not hard to follow along and get in synch in a kind of meditation. That makes it more relaxing. Waves of energy follow the meridians with each strike. The name of this massage, by the way, means ‘strike meridian.’

Promised benefits advertised are pain relief, improved blood circulation, removed energy blockages, and relief from sore tendons, pinched nerves, and numbness.

I gave my masseuse a 100-baht tip and she was pleased. I thought I’d be covered with bruises from all the hammering but later when I checked, there were no marks. I would imagine that if one bruised easily, one could expect to get a few marks, but nothing lasting, I’m sure. All in all, I can highly recommend one try the ‘tok sen’ massage at least once. Just don’t be stubborn like me: if it gets painful, don’t be a martyr and say something! Massage is supposed to be an enjoyable event. It was an interesting massage and I will try it again someday.

The practise dates back many hundreds, perhaps thousands of years and originated in the Lan Na region of northern Thailand. The tradition is taught orally. It was supposed to have been originally prescribed as a way for wives to give their tired and aching husbands some relief after working all day in the fields. The tools for this practise are made from the wood of a tamarind tree after it has been struck by lightning. The wood is then blessed by a monk. All of this special treatment makes the tools better for removing negative energy from our bodies. I’m not sure if those things get done anymore but it sounds like it can’t hurt! Wedges and hammers vary in size and even come with buffered ends to make them quieter for night-time use.

If you want to learn the art yourself, try getting some training at: http://www.thaitoksen.com/

Here’s a set of tools I found for sale on Amazon:

 

Ex-prisoner Massage in Chiang Mai, Thailand

prison3 I must admit I was a bit apprehensive at first at the idea of an ex-convict massaging me but the reviews online were good so I decided to give it a try.

There are several places where you can try ex-prisoner or ex-inmate massages in Chiang Mai. I was originally going to try one of the ‘Lila Massage’ treatments but there was a long lineup at the shop I tried, so I moved down the road to one on Phapokklao Road just south of the Chang Puak gate on the north ‘wall’ of the old city. It was called ‘Women’s Massage Center by Ex-prisoners.’

It was about 10 a.m., a time I like because the masseuses will be fresh, strong, and not yet worn down by a long day of massages. It’s also not busy and it’s usually easy to get an immediate walk-in appointment. A half dozen women in their 30’s and 40’s were sitting in front at a table nibbling on a variety of bagged treats and fruits.

‘I’d like a Thai massage, please.’ A woman produced a rate card. A ‘Thai’ massage was 200 baht, an oil massage 380 baht (quite a bit more than elsewhere). My feet were washed in a bowl with some mildly abrasive soap, then dried off and I was led inside

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About a dozen raised beds, all covered with clean sheets and Thai fabrics, stretched out in front of me. The place was plain but pleasantly decorated with a large golden Buddha overlooking all. There were no dividers between the beds for privacy but I was the only one there so that wasn’t an issue. There was a small loft where I presume more private oil massages could take place.

I was pointed to a change room and given a loose-fitting cotton top and bottom to change into. My street clothes went into a small wicker basket which was placed under my bed. I noticed some lockers at the back where you could leave your clothes as well.

The masseuse, whose name sounded like ‘Mui’, had me lay down on my front. She began by applying pressure to my legs, moving up from my heels to my thighs with her fists, pressing them into my muscles for a few seconds, then releasing, then moving up a bit and repeating. As she got up to my lower back, she ‘walked’ up my legs with her knees, incrementally as she continued. She was giving me compression with fists and knees simultaneously.

Fists and palms continued on my back, working into my upper arms and neck periodically. There was more kneading, twisting, and pressing on the backs of my legs as well as some bending, sometimes mildly painful but in a good way. The stretches that are part of Thai massage are. to me, something like an assisted yoga. To finish off the back side, she had me grip her wrists tightly while she pulled me backwards so that my back arched as much as my aging body would allow. This was a bit tricky for her as I’m a pretty tall guy at 6’4″ and she was half my weight but she did a good job.

Next, it was time to turn over and work up the front of my legs. A couple of strong presses into both sides of my groin really got the blood flowing. Some interesting stretches happened here, the kind where it feels like you’re getting bent like a pretzel. Again, this got amusing at times, due to our vast size differences, but Mui got the job done. A leg gets bent and pushed sideways, massaged, then pushed across the other leg with some mildly painful muscle stretching and kneading of newly exposed areas. She used her heals as well to push into my inner legs. Finally, the arms and hands got massaged. My arms got stretched behind my head in yet another pretzel-like yoga move.

Next, I was asked to sit-up and she worked on my upper back. She leaned into my shoulders with her forearms, rocking and really getting her weight into it. There was some neck kneading and stretching, and finally a head massage, laying my head back into her lap. This included some facial massage (mouth, cheeks, eyebrows, forehead) and some scalp and ear massage.

She was quiet and professional throughout the massage. There was no light chitchat you commonly get in other massage shops. It was obvious that she’d had some sort of training as you might expect in a prison rehabilitation program. I’d expect that all of the women here will have had some training from a reputable massage trainer (unlike some of the other shops where girls are often trained ‘on-the-job’ by their ‘sisters’).

After getting dressed, I went out front where a cup of tea was waiting for me and I was invited to sit at the table with the others and relax. I was curious about what these women had done to get into prison in the first place but I didn’t ask.

It appears that there are other establishments running this kind of massage. The most famous in Chiang Mai is the ‘Lily Massage’ chain. It was established by Naowarat Thanasrisutharat, former Director Chiang Mai Women’s Prison to reintegrate newly released inmates into society. Prior to their release, these carefully screened inmates go through an extensive training program which allows them to make a living and contribute to society. The Prison and the Institute of Skill Development developed a 180-hour massage training course for these inmates.

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Unfortunately, these detainees often encounter discrimination from employers who refuse to hire them, despite their advanced skills. Sadly, du to lack of employment opportunities some return to a cycle of crime and find themselves back in prison. The Lila Thai Massage was established to help eliminate this pattern of crime and lack of opportunity. For more information, check out:http://www.chiangmaithaimassage.com.

Apparently, you can go right inside the Chiang Mai Women’s Correctional Institution as well and get massaged by a ‘soon-to-be-released’ inmate (carefully guarded!). It’s located roughly in the middle of the old city. It’s very popular and you have to book early to get in. I don’t think you get any special luxuries such as lotions, etc., just a basic massage. I would go to one of the other places previously desribed, the ‘post-release’ places, and get there early in the day if you can. Mid-afternoon is typically the busiest time of day.

I can heartily recommend a massage from any of the ‘ex-inmate/ex-prisoner’ establishments. On top of getting a good massage for a reasonable price, you’re supporting a very worthy cause. These women have little chance of getting meaningful employment otherwise.